The detail on a jacket of unknown provenience
So a couple days ago, I posted that I got a pretty incredible (presumably bespoke) jacket. No tags of any kind, so at the very least the material is a mystery (I believe it to be some kind of linen & cotton or wool blend), it has a nice hand either way.
I am posting these details for two main reasons. First? Compliments.
Tuesday night I went out to (of all things) a poetry slam. Mostly baggy sweatshirts/tees and a sort of “hobo-hemian” vibe. I got at least half a dozen compliments, all specifically on the jacket. From the moment I walked in (when someone tapped my shoulder to compliment the jacket as I walked by) to the moment I left (when I complimented a poet wearing a baggy t-shirt who then said “thanks, oh, and great jacket man!).
Now I get compliments from time to time, (I do kind of stand out in Portland ME) but this is by far the most clustered and specific they’ve ever been. I never realized the power of a truly beautifully tailored item. I can only hope that someday I’ll have the scrill to get something of my own made, because (I’ll admit it) it feels even better to get compliments in real life than it does on Tumblr (but don’t worry guys, you’re who I’m really getting dressed for).
But there’s another point, a year ago (when I started not just dressing-up, but actually taking a keen interest in what I was wearing) I wouldn’t have recognized any of these details. Sure I might have thought it was an awesome jacket (I’ve surprised myself with my own decent taste before), but I wouldn’t have had the eye for details, or the specific knowledge of what I’m looking at. I’d like to thank all of you #menswear bloggers (and anyone else who’s ever dropped some knowledge on me) for that. It’s a pretty good feeling to know what you’re talking about (especially for someone who talks out his ass as much as I do).
So without further ado. The (fantastic) details.
Mother of Pearl buttons
the faintest pick stitching I’ve ever seen
hand sewn button-holes.
And the “advanced” details. These are the ones that I would absolutely not have known, and am so so SO glad that I can identify thanks to the internet.
Shoulder roping (I believe this is correct, it’s difficult to see here because the jacket is flat on the table, but when being worn there is a noticeable “ridge” at the sleeve head, please correct me if I’m using this term incorrectly).
And my personal favorite
I had both buttons buttoned in the pic at top. This isn’t me being sprezzy! I buttoned the top button when I first put the jacket on and went “this seems an inch too high… hmmm…” then I looked in the mirror and realized that the buttons were placed closer together than my other jackets. Then I remembered there’s a specific cut of bespoke jacket where both buttons are meant to be buttoned. This one buttons about an inch above my belly button (or 2” above my natural waist) and (presumably) is meant to have both buttons buttoned. It certainly doesn’t distort the line of the jacket.
Here’s my plaid fresco (that I’ve been wearing in practically every wiwt this summer) for comparison.
Needless to say I am extremely excited about this acquisition, and only wish it had come earlier in the summer. Fortunately this jacket will probably last me the next 15 or 20 years if I treat it right.
So that’s pretty awesome.
Long time readers (and by long time I mean read this blog back when it was my secondary blog) will recall my predilection for knockoff sunglasses and might even remember me lamenting my inability to find a pair of knockoff Vuarnet Skilynx Cateye’s. Well, search is over. My friend found these on Zenni the other day. If I know anything about trends (and I do not) Skilynx will be the next big thing. Get ‘em while the getting’s good.
Bought this the other day. A bit of a splurge at $8, but if that’s what it costs to be dressed by the internet I guess I can dig deep.
Oh, and since trends are so cyclical, if you’re keeping your eyes peeled, there’s no reason you can’t stay up to date in a thrift store.
Now if only snakeskin pants would come back in style…
I’m a bit surprised my jackets aren’t more colorful.
L-R: White Tropical Wool (thrifted); Khaki jacket (clearance); Linen Jacket (thrifted); brown corduroy (thrifted); burgundy corduroy (thrifted); navy corduroy (end of season sale); Wool pin-dot (consignment shop); Wool navy (thrifted); gray flannel (thrifted); Blue/Green Worsted (thrifted); Blue Plaid (thrifted); Gray Herringbone Tweed (thrifted [also I have no storage]).
Black Stafford Tie
Purchased at Macy’s, Poughkeepsie Galleria, Poughkeepsie NY. I bought this for Halloween my sophomore year of college so I could go as… some guy… wearing all black everything (look, I was 19, had a pleather jacket and pants, and wanted to look cool for all the ladies. I think I get a pass)
Mossimo Heather Grey Henley
Purchased at Target. I have half a dozen of these suckers. $3.74 on clearance. A bunch of muted colors. 5 button placket. Perfect.
Old Navy Crew-Neck Sweater
Gift from Parents. I like crew neck sweaters because they’re simple. Just sort of toss them over whatever and go. I specifically like the detailing on this one.
Silver Saville Row Tie
Purchased at Mill Creek Plaza Goodwill. I bought this at the same time as my Turnbull and Asser tie. I know “Saville Row” is a (sears?) house brand, but I like to pretend. Also, the silk is pretty high quality and it’s made in USA so who am I to complain. Nobody! That’s who!
Purchased at Mill Creek Plaza Goodwill. Bought a set of 4 pocket squares for like a dollar or something. 100% polyester. You know what I don’t understand paying $90 for? Anything you only see 1/4” of and don’t get to touch. Long live wearable plastic.
Canvas D Ring Belt
Purchased at a goodwill. Sorry for the foggy memory, but I bought this to replace my old web belt that I bought in 6th grade. This belt has such heavy canvas that instead of the common problem D-rings have (loosening over the day) it has the opposite problem (it tightens and at the end of the day it takes 5 minutes to pry loose.)
My friends have started calling me Imelda Marcos. Is it wrong that my response was “her collection is 1000x bigger than mine! I won’t get that far for years.”
Izod Green Plaid Tie
Purchased at South Portland Goodwill Superstore, S. Portland ME. I may not have too much love for polo shirts and generally preppy wear. But I got some serious love for plaid ties, also for silk plaid ties (which I feel like are pretty slept on).